Meg Heath Dog Leads owner Sarah Gleave often comes up with innovative creations and this time the dog rescue centre Linbee Dog Rehoming is going to benefit from 10 Kennel Evacuation Leads.
Sarah designed these dog leads in the aftermath of the Manchester Dogs Home fire in 2014. The fire shook a nation of dog lovers and being a kennel owner, Sarah re-evaluated her own evacuation procedure at Meg Heath Kennels. The lead was promptly covered against copying as nothing of its’ kind had ever been made before.
She thought “I need a dog lead that can be attached to anything and stored along the same principle as a fire extinguisher.” So the multi – length / multi – attachment KEL – Kennel Evacuation Lead was born.
The cost of materials for this venture was very important to Sarah as the intention was to gift these dog leads 10 at a time to kennel based dog rescues who applied for help. Sarah says “I approached a UK supplier called Abbey England who very kindly donated a few 1000 metres of a yellow and black printed webbing and some 19mm nickel trigger hooks.” Meg Heath Dog Leads donated the rest of the fittings, the time & expertise to make the leads and the shipping for these very special & unique dog leads.
The Kennel Evacuation Lead is a lead that is designed to be attached anywhere and is essentially a long adjustable, double ended, double up dog lead made from a strong webbing with strong fittings. Its’ intended use is to be stored like a fire extinguisher to be available in an emergency evacuation of a kennel block to take dogs to a place of safety where they can be tethered safely (our advice under supervision where possible).
Sarah advices that the leads be used with care and for their intended use – for emergencies only. Check the trigger hooks periodically as damp will affect their use.
If you are a kennel based rescue and would like to benefit from the Kennel Evacuation Dog Lead then please contact Sarah by telephone on 01522 810150. You will be required to set up a link to Meg Heath Dog Leads from your centres’ website and share us on social media periodically.
TOP 10 DOG PRODUCTS THAT YOU SHOULDNT BE WITHOUT IF YOU OWN DOGS!
TOP 10 DOG PRODUCTS starting with…..
ALOE VETERINARY FORMULA
Aloe Veterinary Formula – £17.92 Amazon.
Very high proportion of Aloe Vera in the formula. When one of the family suffers a minor cut or abrasions,we reach for Aloe First. Well animals are part of the family too and now they can also experience the power of the ‘Miracle Plant’. So Reach for Aloe Whenever your Pets need its benefits. Aloe Vera has been shown to be effective in treating or alleviating a number of animal problems. preparations in dealing with ringworm,mud fever and contaminated wounds. Aloe Veterinary Formula is made with a high percentage of stabilised Aloe Vera Gel,used for its moisturising Antimicrobial action. It is ideally suited for cuts,abrasions,bruises,chafes,infections and other external animal problems. Allantoin, a proven activator in treatment of wounds,is the only other ingredients. The nozzle-control spray is a great feature,making application to any size or type of pet easy. Aloe Veterinary Formula can give quick relief-soothing,protecting and assisting the healing of wounds. Other products used by animal owners include: Aloe Vera Gel -To improve general wellbeing-use in conjunction with Aloe Vera topical preparations. Aloe Vera Gelly – For soothing wounds and inflamed areas and for protecting against further infection. Aloe Propolis creme – To help skin fight of infection. Ingredients: Stabilised Aloe Vera Gel,Allantoin. Directions: Cleanse with Aloe Liquid Soap and water, and apply Aloe Veterinary spray to affected areas. Bandage if nessessary. For optimum results,apply several times daily or us as recommended by your veterinary surgeon. Always consult your veterinary surgeon before undertaking any treatment on an animal. This product is for external use only,and is not recommended for deep puncture wounds. Avoid contact with the eyes and other sensitive areas.2
Vaseline – Can be purchased from most stores, for example Tesco or your chemist. As your dog gets older they can suffer from a cracked nose, just put a little on the cracked area when required and your dogs nose will be restored in no time.
Details – Protects and locks in moisture to help dry skin restore
100% pure petroleum jelly. Triple-purified. Purity guaranteed.
Gentle on your skin, hypo-allergenic and non-comedogenic (won’t clog pores)
Reduces the appearance of fine, dry lines
Helps protect minor cuts, scrapes and burns
Protects your skin from windburn and chapping
BEST FOR: DRY SKIN, DRY ROUGH SKIN
3. SODA CRYSTALS – For emergency use only, use with caution and at own risk. This is my personal use and is merely a suggestion. Always consult a vet. Soda crystals can be used to induce vomiting for example when a dog has injested poison or an item that is likely to cuase death or extreme discomfort or pain. When a tablespoon of soda crystals are put down your dogs throat it will induce vomiting and thus bring up the stomach contents. AGAIN I STRESS, ALWAYS CONSULT A VET. THIS IS NOT A REPLACEMENT FOR VETERINARY CARE.
4. COUGH MIXTURE – Again on this one, only to be given under the guidance of a vet. You can give the correct type of cough mixture to a dog to help ease the discomfort of nasty coughing with Kennel Cough.
5. A DECENT SET OF GROOMING TOOLS – The amount of dogs I see in Kennels who need grooming is disheartening to say the least. A good comb is better than a brush, even for short / smooth coated dogs.
6. DOGGY TOOTHBRUSH & TOOTHPASTE –
Brighten and whiten your dog’s teeth, and freshen his breath with this ARM & HAMMER Advanced Pet Care Tartar Control Toothpaste and Brush Set. The enzymatic toothpaste isformulated with baking soda to neutralize odours, effectively control tartar and delivering complete and thorough cleaning. Use the dual-headed toothbrush and the finger brush to ensure that his teeth are fresh and clean.
1 x Arm & Hammer Dual-headed toothbrush 1 x Arm & Hammer Advanced Pet Care Tartar Control Toothpaste 1 x Arm & Hammer Advanced Pet Care Finger Brush
7. TICK REMOVER TOOL –
The shape of the O’TOM TICK TWISTER takes into account the tick’s morphology, it is adapted to any size of ticks and is really easy to handle. The O’TOM TICK TWISTER is made of an unbreakable plastic resistant to wear. The O’TOM TICK TWISTER can therefore be used indefinitely. While removing a tick, it is essential not to compress it, reducing the risk of saliva back-flow. A tick’s saliva
contains irritating substances and sometimes microorganisms that can lead to infections andor allergies. Tweezers and other instruments exert a pressure on the tick. O’TOM TICK TWISTER does not compress the body of the tick. The tick’s rostrum (the part that is embedded in the skin and improperly referred to as “the tick’s head”) is covered with backward pointing spikes that allow the tick to “anchor” in the skin. By pulling up on the tick, the spikes will rise and lock the rostrum in the skin. The tick may break leaving body parts resting in the skin and causing a painful inflammation, or an infection. By twisting, the spikes bend into the axis of rotation, and the tick is easily removed, without traction, decreasing the risks of breaking the rostrum. The O’TOM TICK TWISTER does not compress the tick’s abdomen during removal, reducing the risk of transmission of diseases. The O’TOM TICK TWISTER removes ticks by rotation and not by pulling; decreasing the risks of breaking the rostrum.
Tick Twister Mini Grip Pack
8. SILVER NITRATE PEN – Caustic Veterinary Pencil – use for example when a nail bleeds to stop bleeding.
Does your dog turn into a crazed individual when you try to hoover up? I’ve cured a handful of dogs in my time who don’t like the hoover and it is usually in just 2 sessions totalling less than 10 minutes.
Notes: I’ll hold my hands up, it really does make it easier if your dog is food motivated, Ive never done it with a dog who was not motivated by food. Most times I used a clicker but not essential.
Treats in your pocket or tub set out of the way
Clicker or just your voice
Technique 1 (novice or inexperienced trainer)
Choose a quiet room with no distractions
You need your dog, hoover, treats, clicker and you!
Don’t switch the hoover on, just have it in the room. Dog does one of the following:
Lies down next to or near hoover or just does nothing
Looks at hoover
Basically you are looking for ‘no reaction’ or an inquisitive dog
Identify a ‘no reaction’ behaviour and then either click & treat or say ‘good!’ then give treat.
Then identify a behaviour that moves on from the last, so for example dog looks at hoover, then dog sniffs hoover. Click treat for sniff hoover.
Ideally you would repeat the above and call it a day as session 1.
Next day – repeat ALL of the above.
At some point you will be looking to switch the hoover on but for now depending on how reactive your dog is, maybe move the pipe or carefully wheel the hoover about slowly.
The key at every stage here is that you ARE NOT looking for a negative reaction, just positive behaviours as listed above, sniffing, looking etc.
When you feel ready to move on, you can switch the hoover on but it just stays in situ. Repeat as above, so looking, nose bumps etc. Your dogs reaction will be individual to him / her.
Do you see the picture now? At every stage you are moving sooo slooooowly that there is never a negative reaction to the hoover.
Technique 2 (experienced)
The only thing I wanted you to do differently in technique 2 really is teach your dog to nose bump the hoover and / or hoover pipe. If you’ve clicker trained before and understand what you are doing then this is just like a hand touch, or object touching.
That’s it really. Have a go but remember the skill is in moving slowly so that there is never a negative reaction. You may even end up with a dog that LOVES the hoover like my Brock does, he will still touch the pipe now when I say ‘touch it. He has never forgotten how to ‘do it’.
Disclaimer: I am not a vet nor am a qualified trainer or behaviourist. What I do have is over 30 years practical dog training and behaviour experience. So do your research and if my example works for you then great. Always see a vet and a qualified and recommended behaviourist. This is just an example of one dogs’ behaviour in my pack…
The Story Of Maisie Jalfrezi…
Background – Maisie is a small crossbreed rescued from the streets abroad at the tender age of 4 weeks. The RAF family that took her in moved to the UK later in life and had a family. It wasn’t long before Maisie started to display certain behaviours tantamount to jealousy and insecurity. Maisie’s ‘dad’ contacted me as his wife could no longer tolerate Maisie and no longer wanted her. It was a split decision, but her ‘dad’ decided it was best to find her a new home. This is where I came in. I was contacted with a view to taking Maisie in and finding her a new home. I saw displays of Maisie’s behaviour quite early on and made a quick decision to keep her as she was only really suitable for an experienced home as her behaviour could easily have escalated in the wrong hands which would have been unfair on her meaning potentially she would have to return to me.
Anyway we fell in love with her. On the day the decision was made to keep her, we had a collar upgrade ceremony, she was now the proud owner of a leather and brass half check. By then Maisie and Seb had become very close – we called her a daddies girl.
It is important to explain here that you can spoil 2 types of dog rotten, type one – the well balanced, secure, well raised dog and type two the insecure, not so well balanced dog, Mais was the latter. The first type one dog will not change its’ behaviour and will be obedient and well behaved, type two dog when spoiled will as I say ‘go off the rails’. That said, behaviours such as growling, mainly insecure growling will be displayed.
This is where you will need an open mind and trust me that what Im telling you now is not something I’ve been told by someone else nor read in a book, this is experience. Dogs are pack animals, if you don’t agree then I suggest you close this window now unless you are prepared to keep an open mind. Pack animal = hierarchy, what ever word you use, there will always be some kind of hierarchy among animals whether YOU like it or not. Don’t mistake the word ‘dominance’ for pack because it is not the same thing.
When you lavish a dog who is what I’ve called ‘the type 2’ they become quite shitty in their temperament. So for example to define ‘lavish’ these are things like allow on the bed, allow on the furniture, told / asked to do things and they ignore you, they barge through doors ahead or you, this includes anywhere you should go first, this includes getting out of a car, setting off on a walk – general manners. Think of these as PRIVILEGES. When you give a type 2 dog too many privileges, they don’t have a clue where they are in the pack and it is stressful for them. A dog is far happier being at the correct rung on the ladder rather than a falsely elevated one.
It is stressful for a dog to behave badly. When they have their status elevated by their owner and are aggressive as a result of this, they are not happy dogs.
What we did with Maisie was simple and you can try this too.
(Remember this is Maisie’s story. If you can identify then good, but I am writing about a specific case and all dogs are different. You can try certain techniques and see if they work for you.)
The most important one – Not allowed on the bed. Noooooo, this was the biggest fail for Maisie as this privaledge created a princess!
Fed her seperately because she had issues with being aggressive around food. I feed her first (not necessarily last as you might expect).
Be more aloof around her, so not lavishing her with praise unless she deserved it.
If she does creep upstairs and puts her paws on the bed as if to want to jump on, a stern “down” Maisie, gentle push if required, then sincere verbal praise for getting down and being a good girl.
At night she is basically banished to the bottom ranks and sleeps in our conservatory. Here she is firmly reminded that bad behaviour will not be tolerated.
You know what? We have a new dog and I know she is happier with certain behaviour she NOW displays.
Good luck with your dog and please please remember that this is Maisie’s individual case and if in doubt consult your vet.
Have you ever struggled to get a urine sample from your dog?
Have no fear, I developed a technique that has you covered as long as your dog will pee on a solid floor, for example relatively smooth concrete or slabs.
A tub (to put the urine in once collected)
Silver foil about 10 inches square (or there abouts)
A syringe (optional)
Have your tub and foil, syringe if you have one to hand.
Take dog out for pee on concrete / slabs etc (vets usually ask for an early morning sample)
Just had a thought, if your dog pees on pee pads you could wring it out?
Go to said pee puddle and either syringe it up and straight in to the tub or fold the foil over in half and lay the folded edge next to pee and using your hand (yes use your hands – man up!) and flick it onto the foil.
Pick foil up off the ground in such a way that it holds the pee, now put in in to the tub.
Hey presto! You’re done.
This is easy but most people struggle because they miss one vital technique and that is to use something flat like a plate otherwise how will you catch it with smaller dogs or bitches who squat low?
Have the dog on a lead so you aren’t chasing him / her around.